himalayas and wooly jumpers

I realize there is no way to sum up the last five weeks in a weak blog entry, thus the shit status of the last few blogs...so sorry.

After the horrendous ordeal of being ill in Delhi and being on my own again, I have finally made the next step in this crazy adventure. After bumming around all day in hot sweaty Delhi, I stayed up all night in anticipation of the 3am cab coming to cart me away to the airport. Unable to book a flight, I just had to show up with my fingers crossed.

Luckily...everything worked out! I made it to Leh, in the Ladakh region of Jammu and Kashmir this morning! If I have raved about India before, I think I am in love now.
Through my hazy eyes this morning we flew straight over the Himalayan, brushing over the snow capped peaks, and winding web of shadows.

As the plane swooped into landing, I realized people had starting putting on their real clothes. Down jackets, wool beanies, gloves, and full blown hiking boots. I was left wearing a thin thermal shirt and sandals, feeling like a complete fool not only for my attire but my giant pack full summer clothes. Now I am cozily bundled up in my first sweater, gloves, and wool socks! Oh how missed layering. :)

I met a lovely British couple to share a cab into town with, because of course once again I had not planned anything...but that's the way I like it. We found a charming little guesthouse run by a Ladakhi family, eager to please and make us feel at home. They immediately told us to rest and go to sleep to avoid getting sick, which I obviously had no complaints about.

Leh has already blown away my expectations, and it has been but a few hours of tea and rest to acclimatize to the elevation. Feeling sick now feels like a far away dream, and I am more than ready to begin exploring the north.

Nearing the end of October, Leh begins to cool down drastically and roads start to close. I have yet to see many backpackers here, but that simply adds to the charm.
The dark brown skin, and saris of the south are replaced by; beautiful olive skin, shimmering green eyes, and vibrant traditional Ladakhi, and Tibetan clothing. This is not the same India I have spent the last two months in, and I like it.

The hustle and bustle of Indian cities, heat soaked streets, heckling vendors, desperate begging children with babies, dirty cows, and constant rattle of rickshaw horns is a distant memory. This little town nestled between Himalayan peaks is peaceful and unbelievably beautiful. Even the wandering cows and dogs that run the streets wear shaggy coats, and howl at the moon and not at me.

If you ever come to India...you must come to Leh. Bottom line. Better yet, spend a few months in Southern India, then come here because it will blow your mind. Can't wait to get out and explore...thinking of all of you at home!

mumbai, taj, and beyond

The last few weeks have been a blur of overnight bus rides, trains, and goodbyes. Knowing that my new found travel bezzies would be leaving me soon, and trying to understand how different it feels knowing that your trip is coming to a close when mine is just starting.
AND...since I have been too vague, I have spent the last five weeks travelling with four wonderful British students from Leeds.
After a few wonderful weeks gallivanting around Southern India we finally made some progress in heading up North a bit.
But first...Mysore, famed for its massive bazaars of spices and perfumes, we had to have a look. We ended up stationed about ten feet from the entrance so the boys could purchase some delicious fragrances for their WAGs at home. Once we finally ventured off to explore the market a bit more, the masses took over and we were stuck in a stand still. After being thoroughly groped at every angle the minute I lost the boys in the crowd, I made a vow never to enter another Indian market alone. Not the best situation. Mysore may have been a slight bust, but the next destination made up for it by far.
Hampi: Ill try to post some pictures, because this place is too wonderful for words. Its a small town in Karnataka surrounded by sprawling boulders, temples, and wandering monkeys. We spent the day under the sun climbing rocks, and another cruising by on mopeds.
Next stop Mumbai.
Although we only had a few days to explore, one of which a few of us were a bit under the weather to brave the mumbai heat, this city might be one of my favorite places we have seen, and I'm already planning ways to make it back here before I head home.
After mumbai we spent a unbelievably quick 24 hours on a train to arrive in the mecca of India, Agra, the home of the Taj Mahal. More unbelievably beautiful and magnificent than you would ever imagine. The other landmarks of Agra, while cannot compare to the Taj, are remarkable just the same. We hit up the Agra fort, Akbar's Mausoleum, and made it just in time for sunset at the baby taj.
It is more difficult than you would think trying to sum up the last five weeks in just enough space to keep you interested, but I'm trying.
The last few days have been some of the most difficult yet. After taking a short train from Agra to Delhi, I am now alone again and not quite ready to fend for myself.
After getting violently ill on the train, and spending the last night with my friends sick on a bed, it has been a rough couple of days. I would not have made it out alive if they had not been there to pick up the pieces...
So now...here I am in Delhi, exactly the place I did not want to end up, and unable to find an honest face to help me along my way. If I can manage to book a flight, I will be making my way up to Leh in the far north for a bit, and then hopefully over the Nepal.

unreal.

yes i am alive. i am still in India. and I'm alone again. i do apologize for the huge delay in blog writing, but it has been one crazy month of shenanigans, and you know how it goes.
where do i even begin...
i somehow managed to find myself in the company of four British blokes, travelling up the coast of south India. How did this happen? Well stuck in a blackout one night, we met under candle light and beers....and here we are a month later.
I guess i will start by giving you a few of the highlights from these past few weeks.

We made our way by train, bus, rickshaw, and what was left of our legs down the east coast from Pondicherry, Trichy, Tanjore, Madurai, and finally Varkala..a little slice of backpackers heaven out of the madness of India. Stopping in just a handful of temples (meaning loads) and staying in the most budget of all places.
Let's see...the most outrageous of our travel tales begin in Allepuzha, or Alleppy on the Western Coast of Kerala. Kerala for those of you who have never been might just be one of the most beautiful places on earth. Imagine India meet the amazon, winding alleyways and dense palm groves are intercepted by the hectic streets of India. Kerala is also the most literate state of India, and is operated by a communist government.hmm. The first downfall of this trip was agreeing to take a four hour taxi from Varkala, as opposed to a shit hole public bus that would cost 50 rupees. We needed to splurge.
In Alleppy we were greeted by the most ruthless of all hagglers, trying their best to convince us to take their houseboat. Alleppy is located right on the gateway of backwaters that run up the coast of Kerala, and supposedly taking a houseboat is a "top ten must do." Fed up with all the sneaky people trying to "cut us a deal" we set off on our own to find a boat.
To make this short...we wound up walking into a boating office, and were offered a free nights accommodation if we agreed to doing a photo shoot. The top dog of the office had just purchase a brand new, amazing, massive houseboat and he wanted us to take some photos for the brochure.
So naturally, we said yes...with far less hesitation than you might think.
We spent two wonderful nights floating through the backwaters, lulled by the sweet sounds of nearby fisherman and the melodic beat of washing pounding the rocks. One of the most amazing parts of this journey by far.
On our last day on our sweet little houseboat, we knew the inevitable was coming...the photo shoot. However, I was assuming it would be on some decent boat and that would be it.
Not so much. We made out way to the edge of the backwaters and were dropped off at an estate. You know, just the nicest house I have ever seen. Greeted by a gang of people pool side, we immediately accepted drink offers and made ourselves at home.
We were to learn later, the man in charge of this whole operation is the CEO of a major telecom company, and also owner of massive penthouse suites all over the world.
The next few days were simply unreal. After serving us drinks all day to "loosen up," the photo shoot proceeded on the boat that night. Literally, titanic style, Ben and I had to stand on the bow of the boat for at least an hour, trying not to die of laughter. The next few hours you can only imagine, and don't be alarmed if you are ever in the UK and you see a poster of this little situation. Ridiculous.
Another highlight of this little shindig came a few days later, when we were given an offer to stay at the Munnar estate. Munnar is a hill station in Northern Kerala, surrounded by sweeping tea plantations and palm trees. We stayed in a resort house for three days, pretty much complimentary. Served meals like kings and queens again, we basked in the glow of green tea leave scattering the hills. A breathtaking and beautiful place, and as Ben would say a tranquil and peaceful place outside of the busy and bustling cities of India. If you get a chance, check out Casa del Fauno...and you will see where we stayed. unbelievable. Now you might understand why I have not written in awhile...been a bit out of touch with reality.
So those are just a few highlights...more to come!